Sights and Sounds

 There were none , nothing ; pitch black and I couldn’t even hear my heart beat . Surreal;  experiencing the inside of a stone sarcophagus. This was an advertised ‘event’ offered by our hotel ; all free!  Fortunately we were inside a tunnel cut into the rock some 500-1000 years ago for some strange religious reason , now lost in the mists of time . To enhance the memory , candles were extinguished and I was encouraged to feel my way to the exit . I emerged onto a narrow footpath on the side of a 300 m deep canyon, alongside which was a stone channel recently conveying water to another Ecuadorian farm. Clever lot these locals.

Our host was the grandson of the original hacienda’s owner. Formerly the estate covered 120,000 hectares! ( for comparison that’s half the size to Leicestershire ). Now it has shrunk to just 10 hectares , and most of that seemed to be canyon wall. To compensate , and provide further guest delights , great efforts had been made to restore native plants and bird environments.  96 varieties of feathered guests counts as a success. 

We sat enjoying the midday heat , sensibly shaded from  the fierce equatorial sun; an altitude of 2500m moderates the temperature to enjoyable levels . With no wind , the summer stillness accentuated the humming of the bees drawn to the profusion of flowers and numerous bird feeders containing syrup. A buzzing of wings announced the arrival of the first of a succession of humming birds, for which those feeders were intended. They proceeded to delight us with their aerial acrobatics and vibrant colours . 

The hotel was developed to serve the relocated airport . At only 15km away , rapid transferred is ensured . Unfortunately it is also directly under the flight path and being 150 metres higher than the runway , that much closer to the undercarriages of the passing jets . Their engines may be throttled back , but their noise shatters that summer peace. 

Blackness to nature’s brilliance ,a visual kaleidoscope. 

From coffin  stillness, through summer delights to jet roars; an audible panoply. 

There is a way out !

Even the omelette came with visual reinforcement 

Chrysalises

The hillside is two km away and 250m higher , and at night time exhibits a repeatedly flashing light . Investigation and deduction finally revealed the lights were car headlights as they emerged from the road tunnel from  Quito central. The tunnel happened to align with our house in a suburb , this time a coincidence . 

Maybe not so for Box hill railway tunnel. Built by Brunel in 1840 , 3 km long and at a constant gradient of 1:100, the morning sun shines through on Brunel’s birthday ( or thereabouts . ) This light took four years in gestation bursting forth towards Bath . 

The second emergence took 10 months to materialise . Last April we closed the door an a 20ft container full of French procurement and furniture ; the latter having spent the last 18 years in our garage awaiting a family need . This was a move to Quito , but for arcane import restriction , required a diversion via Southern Africa . World shipping and container problems, meant that it was only last week that those goods ,at long last , saw the light of day . 

Ah , but not without an impact from the final development . We had arrived at the end of the year , in time for celebrations to be swiftly followed by Covid lockdown. First it was the cook , then what seems like malign fate, everyone else in the household succumbing one after the other over the last 6 weeks . A perpetual family lockdown , which determined that even container contents had to be quarantined in the garage ( removal men not allowed in side) . This week we all will ( hopefully ) emerge into the world , released at last from our Covid chrysalis.

 I am sure it is in here, somewhere!

What a difference a day makes…there is a song in that! … ( Amy Winehouse ,Dinah Washington et al )

A whiter shade of …….a prophetic tale

 It seems that whenever I muse about things , a song inveigles itself into my psyche. In this case the key word is pale ; and the group Procol Harem. The view outside and the view in the mirror are both insipid.

It had been raining most of the night , not surprising in that it is the Ecuadorian wet season ; and that the author had attempted fate by complaining about the lack of the wet stuff. So the morning started with a white out ; we were firmly in the clouds . It was reminiscent of the Peak District , where walks were invariably in the mizzle . The difference here was that the temperature was in double figures . This was just as well , as houses in central Ecuador have no heating , or AC .

An optimist would have said that this couldn’t last all day , and the weather forecaster clearly verged in that direction . No such luck , it set in for the day ; damp, miserable,  drizzle . The green vegetation enjoyed the day ; humans with resignation. In any event circumstances had conspired to dictate an indoor existence.

Omicron had struck the household , despite our ‘best’ of precautions. A test the day before on the member exhibiting classic symptoms , confirm out worst fears . In NATO’s words “ one for all and all for one “. Ours is not a reaction to potential invasion ( I never did trust the Russkies ), but a household obligation to isolate with just one positive result . The house was thoroughly disinfected , but the likely hood was that we too would succumb. Fortunately the pcr tester would visit the house ,; but he advised a delay in testing to ensure any infection would be detected . Too soon and it would give a false negative. Ah , I have heard that before .

So we have to wait and see; while putting down to potential Covid any abnormal condition . Internet research seemed to say that just about anything could be a precursor to a Covid infection 

Oh I do look pale ! Fortunately forward planning had ensure a plentiful supply of analgesics ……and brandy . 

“And so it was that later

As the miller told his tale

That her face, at first just ghostly,

Turned a whiter shade of pale “

We could all up like this !

Aghh…..As it turned out it , it was the rain , not Covid that reeked havoc that day . The land around Quito is steep sided…mountains , hills and valleys, especially to the west where the Volcan Pichincha rises nearly 2000 m above the city . That night it had the highest rain for 20 years , this triggered raging torrents of mud . Our maid should have been at the bus stop ; fortunately Covid had kept her away. Her friend and daughter were not so lucky; they were still looking for their bodies. The death toll will be over 30!!

A Tale of Two…..Forests

 Ecuador, in South American standards, is a relatively small country ; it takes just 12 hours to drive from the Pacific coast to the Amazon basin . That  short distance encompasses extreme variations in elevation and habitats . This includes two forest ecosystems: rain and cloud . During our current visit, which to see? East to the Amazon or west into the clouds. 

Eastwards :  A short flight and drive took you to the river transport , a eight person large canoe. Suitably equipped with life jackets, the river trip gave time to admire the forest canopy ; attention diverted from the river inhabitants, especially those that live below the water. Including ( but not limited to ) :

   The  anaconda, weights up-to 100kg , and can be 6 metres long , one of the largest snakes in the world . Dislocating  it’s jaw it can swallow pigs whole. The Ecuadorian Waorani warriors, as a demonstration of their strength and bravery, capture …and then release anacondas . The key is to first hold your snake just behind its head …and then never let go !

   The piranha is a ferocious flesh eating fish, attacking its prey in ‘schools’ .So don’t put your hand in the water ! It’s becoming an endangered species as the locals have followed the maxim ..its is better to eat rather than be eaten . 

The lodge was either on the water , or 30 minute walk depending on river levels. A quote from an intrepid explorer “ I’ve long given up trying to shield myself from the giant masses of water. I’m soaking wet right down to my underwear. It’s been raining for hours.“ 

We decided to head west instead ; into the cloud forest . 

The drive out of Quito started on a 6 lane motorway , which wound through tree less suburbs of grey concrete blocks houses , overlooked by vegetation less mountainside . Desolate.

 Ahead a flashing orange light warned of something ; and surprisingly  it was a speed bump …on a motorway! .These continued for some kilometres until the road abruptly finished in a roundabout and a minor road. This wasn’t so much “ the road to hell ‘ ( Chris Rea ), as the road to almost nowhere; with the speed bumps preventing it being turned into a race track .

We crested the hill and into vegetation , then cloud , then forest . These hill faced the warm Pacific moisture laden winds: thus tropical  cloud forest . The road snaked down the sides of almost vertical hill/mountain sides, fortunately the vegetation and mist concealing the precipitous drops . Those crash barriers don’t look anywhere near strong enough ! 

The last 2 km was forecast to take 20 minutes , as long as you had a robust 4x4. Toyota Fortuner will do nicely ! Our accommodation owner proceed to guide us , which was just as well, as a sharp left was followed by a home made suspension bridge some 50 metres long over a raging torrent  . “ Wait until he has crossed first “ came a chorus from  our passengers . Watching the wooden planks move , and the bridge sway , was unnerving ; but it must be alright as he had just crossed . 

The track ended along a narrow ridge to our rental , with spectacular views ; when of course that cloud dispersed, fortunately most mornings .The location was a bird watchers paradise , the house was surrounded with copious flowers to attract feathered visitors , from humming birds to the occasional vulture . In true “ Jungle Book” style , that settled in an adjacent dead tree , looking steadfastly at us ..hoping for its next meal?

Our destination dictated that all walks started with a 300 metre steep slippery decent, and then of course finished in the reverse. Our  local guide, who also doubled up as the cook, and elder grand children scampered up and down . Us more aged soles frequently paused to admire the view. 

These forests were a whole series of steep mountains sides separated by swirling rivers . Our next bridge , although only  for foot traffic , was its’ owners pride and joy . Substantial , with handrails and roof ; it was reminiscent of “ the bridges of Maddison County . To leave however , we had to face a return crossing on that suspension bridge . 

Substantial bridge 

Welcoming smile …if you don’t make it !

Yes that is a road bridge!

…over troubled waters

70%

 What!, really !” Yes , 70% of our PCR testing comes back positive”. No wonder the testers who turned up at our house were dressed as if it was a highly  contagious zone. The chances it was/is . Why us , haven’t we been careful ; we’ll sort of. This time the finger was pointing at our cook. She lives in a closely packed urban area, had just celebrated a family New Year . Then developed cold symptoms , with her doctor, without recommending testing, saying it was nothing important. It was , and she was with us for two days until we deduced something was wrong . 

Ah! and I have a sore throat that my standby medicine hasn’t completely cured . But the brandy does make me feel better! At least all the adults are triple vaccinated . The children ( all 10 and under ) not . Parents declined the use of Sinovac , ( that available and promoted in Ecuador) emanating  from such an untrustworthy source. EU has only recently approved a reliable ( to us ) vaccine for under 12’s; and that hasn’t yet crossed the bureaucracy to reach the few out-posted Europeans .

The other side of the world , in the Maldives, Omicron has been detected in half our son’s family and friends . Fortunately associated illnesses have been comparatively mild. Those negative visitors promptly fled the country, only to be tested positive at their home .PCR testing has to be also carried at the right time ( and place? ).

Now we wait the result of our own testing. The words of the Clash seem most apt :

“Should I stay or should I go now?

Should I stay or should I go now?

If I go there will be trouble

And if I stay it will be double

So come on and let me know”

A previous freedom

Postscript :  pcr tests all negative….except cook ….iron rations henceforth 

The town mouse and country mouse

Cumbaya is a green and affluent suburb of Quito , population 2 million . Fortunately most of this population is hidden from view behind a long tree covered ridge, leaving us in an oasis of modernity . There is nothing we can cannot procure , nothing we have to do without . Local delis and country clubs abound; but so does traffic and people . At 04.00 in the morning it is calm , but outside this brief period of quite , it is hustle and bustle. Economics in full swing , which is what draws people from the country side to urban wealth. 

The town mouse has all these creature comforts , excepting the calming effect of nature’s countryside. So we are off to search for a brief respite and that rural idyll. To join the simple life of a country mouse. 

Travelling in the Andes is a challenge .As continental drift have pushed some mountains to over 6000 meters, aided by a volcano or two, rivers have cut deep gorges as quickly as the mountains rose up. So journeying, particularly north south, involves a tortuous route . Fairly recently a ‘ fast road ‘ has eased the journey . Previously it would have taken two days on horse back , now it was two hours in a land cruiser. Even this is an achievement, since the road seemed a succession of horse shoe bends.

The road weaved through drab the city suburbs , which themselves clung to the sides of the repeated ravines. Leaving the urban areas, the principal feature seemed sprayed concrete on the hill sides , designed to prevent erosion on the road’s steep embankments. Vegetation was scarce . This was a waste land , due in part to deforestation and also a very poor soil . Cresting the next hill , the change was dramatic . As far as the eye could see were acres of plastic…greenhouses. A monument on the next roundabout gave a clue to the principal crop : roses . Apparently the climate is perfect , and the  volcanic soil fertile . Roses are a major export earner for Ecuador. 

We were now descending into a wide bowl shaped valley , with the country’s largest fresh water lake in the bottom; all this  overlooked by 4500 m peaks . A green Andean gem . Our destination was to a valley to the side . We were early however , so searched for a lunch stop . Conveniently, for us, a former convent had been transformed into an hotel “ of charm “ . Agrarian reform in the 1950”s had robbed the estate of it’s 500 hectare sheep farm ; the nuns departed leaving the building, constructed in 1602 , to be converted for less abstemious residents. It still housed numerous religious relics, including a life sized Madonna on the stair case . Even this religious order was hedging its’ bets ,as over a door were three heads from a previous deity.  Alongside a plethora of religious artefacts , a framed picture  detailed the menu , but only through the use of  a QR code . Judging by the ageing clientele, a useless adjunct; but nevertheless detailing that Ecuadorean delicacy: Guinea pig.

The valley narrowed, the sides rising up , ending in a 4000 metre peak, beckoning exploration. The valley floor was flat and fertile , the sides covered in native eucalyptus , and then green scrub and  grasses above the tree line. The farm , our destination , occupied the bottom . It hosted cows, horses , donkeys, and, this being the Andes , llamas. ; and now us. The farmer had built three stylish wood framed houses, catering for guests every needs . Cooks arrived with farm produce to  prepare our meals , while we basked in this rural heaven . To ensure that we weren’t totally cut off from urbanity , satellite TV and Wifi were provided.  We settled down to enjoy a modern country mouse’s home. 

A rooster’ call signalled a start to our day . It was off to collect eggs ,and milk the cow, for breakfast  ; then collect vegetables from a gigantic kitchen garden . It made my potage look puny indeed. Walking to the valley’s end we crossed a field of cows and horses, both with new offspring; an unfriendly looking bull making sure our dogs behaved themselves. Squelching across a boggy terrain we reached our destination, a hidden waterfall . Alone, surveying this very special valley , we truly felt the beauty and inner peace of  nature at its best.

Off into the wilderness

It’s the cows that clean the BBQ!

Blog reflections

 The  last hours of this year tick by, and the house is suddenly quiet  (dogs, children and adults have set off for an evening walk) ; church bells are pealing across the valley . It  is a time for reflection on the year passed , and thoughts for that soon to start. Blogging has proved a vehicle for description of current  events ; and now is a  useful reminder of the year’s highlights. Of projects completed , of life’s impacts , of travel , and of the magic of the world around. 

As a water engineer  , that medium , not surprisingly , has been dominant; especially as we found ourselves running out of the stuff. In the South of France with a pool , acres of land and as a holiday destination, it was nearly a catastrophe . Normality was restored with borehole , well and pool refurbishment ; then judicious use of the recycled water . Children could swim, adults bathe , and flowers and vegetables watered. Even the rain prompted a joyous response. 

Ah , thoughts of vegetables and the considerable effort unleashed by the project to establish a potage, and that in a space previously occupied by couch grass. I can now report that despite some disappointing failures , edible product is being produced ; in some cases in abundance . This autumn has unleashed copious sprouts , cauliflower , cabbage, potatoes ,and late raspberries  . Our timing has been terrible as we have left for extended travels. Still those remaining have feasted on the gardens largess…and the result of all that work !

We live in a never changing world and have had to adapt and plan accordingly . Nature can sometimes be harsh, and climate change is very real. Our response has been installation of lightening conductors , standby generator , alternative water sources, and fire prevention measures. It can also be magical , especially with the adjacent Les  Albere, and La Méditerranée . A sunrise or full moon brings  shadows and light, with colours and shapes into joyous relief. A still morning punctuated with bird song lifts the spirit.

This departing year cannot but be defined by Covid. It has ruled our lives throughout the last twelve months . From lockdowns to gradual normalisation made possible by vaccination . Though not without a terrible toll , at a personal and economic level . Then just as we thought the worst was over , along comes Omicron  ; we seem back to square one. 

For us ,before this latest chaos, we departed on a 30,000 km odyssey, taking in the Maldives, India, briefly Madrid, and now residents in Ecuador. From the tranquility of a desert  island ,to the vibrancy of a Bollywood wedding. A  whirlwind of experiences; and a lifetime of memories; and we have yet to savour South America’s offerings . 

 

So that brings us to the rapidly approaching year; and first thoughts of family and friends, and an earnest wish for health and happiness. Fireworks are bringing in a noise start, but we hope for a level of normality in an increasingly chaotic world. Covid, economic and political upheaval will surely ensue ; and we will have to increasingly adapt to climate change, whilst minimising its impact . 

 

As the local clocks strike twelve , all remains is to wish my blog readership a Happy and Healthy New Year

A year in a coffee cup