Ecuador, in South American standards, is a relatively small country ; it takes just 12 hours to drive from the Pacific coast to the Amazon basin . That short distance encompasses extreme variations in elevation and habitats . This includes two forest ecosystems: rain and cloud . During our current visit, which to see? East to the Amazon or west into the clouds.
Eastwards : A short flight and drive took you to the river transport , a eight person large canoe. Suitably equipped with life jackets, the river trip gave time to admire the forest canopy ; attention diverted from the river inhabitants, especially those that live below the water. Including ( but not limited to ) :
The anaconda, weights up-to 100kg , and can be 6 metres long , one of the largest snakes in the world . Dislocating it’s jaw it can swallow pigs whole. The Ecuadorian Waorani warriors, as a demonstration of their strength and bravery, capture …and then release anacondas . The key is to first hold your snake just behind its head …and then never let go !
The piranha is a ferocious flesh eating fish, attacking its prey in ‘schools’ .So don’t put your hand in the water ! It’s becoming an endangered species as the locals have followed the maxim ..its is better to eat rather than be eaten .
The lodge was either on the water , or 30 minute walk depending on river levels. A quote from an intrepid explorer “ I’ve long given up trying to shield myself from the giant masses of water. I’m soaking wet right down to my underwear. It’s been raining for hours.“
We decided to head west instead ; into the cloud forest .
The drive out of Quito started on a 6 lane motorway , which wound through tree less suburbs of grey concrete blocks houses , overlooked by vegetation less mountainside . Desolate.
Ahead a flashing orange light warned of something ; and surprisingly it was a speed bump …on a motorway! .These continued for some kilometres until the road abruptly finished in a roundabout and a minor road. This wasn’t so much “ the road to hell ‘ ( Chris Rea ), as the road to almost nowhere; with the speed bumps preventing it being turned into a race track .
We crested the hill and into vegetation , then cloud , then forest . These hill faced the warm Pacific moisture laden winds: thus tropical cloud forest . The road snaked down the sides of almost vertical hill/mountain sides, fortunately the vegetation and mist concealing the precipitous drops . Those crash barriers don’t look anywhere near strong enough !
The last 2 km was forecast to take 20 minutes , as long as you had a robust 4x4. Toyota Fortuner will do nicely ! Our accommodation owner proceed to guide us , which was just as well, as a sharp left was followed by a home made suspension bridge some 50 metres long over a raging torrent . “ Wait until he has crossed first “ came a chorus from our passengers . Watching the wooden planks move , and the bridge sway , was unnerving ; but it must be alright as he had just crossed .
The track ended along a narrow ridge to our rental , with spectacular views ; when of course that cloud dispersed, fortunately most mornings .The location was a bird watchers paradise , the house was surrounded with copious flowers to attract feathered visitors , from humming birds to the occasional vulture . In true “ Jungle Book” style , that settled in an adjacent dead tree , looking steadfastly at us ..hoping for its next meal?
Our destination dictated that all walks started with a 300 metre steep slippery decent, and then of course finished in the reverse. Our local guide, who also doubled up as the cook, and elder grand children scampered up and down . Us more aged soles frequently paused to admire the view.
These forests were a whole series of steep mountains sides separated by swirling rivers . Our next bridge , although only for foot traffic , was its’ owners pride and joy . Substantial , with handrails and roof ; it was reminiscent of “ the bridges of Maddison County . To leave however , we had to face a return crossing on that suspension bridge .
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