A Tale of Two…..Forests

 Ecuador, in South American standards, is a relatively small country ; it takes just 12 hours to drive from the Pacific coast to the Amazon basin . That  short distance encompasses extreme variations in elevation and habitats . This includes two forest ecosystems: rain and cloud . During our current visit, which to see? East to the Amazon or west into the clouds. 

Eastwards :  A short flight and drive took you to the river transport , a eight person large canoe. Suitably equipped with life jackets, the river trip gave time to admire the forest canopy ; attention diverted from the river inhabitants, especially those that live below the water. Including ( but not limited to ) :

   The  anaconda, weights up-to 100kg , and can be 6 metres long , one of the largest snakes in the world . Dislocating  it’s jaw it can swallow pigs whole. The Ecuadorian Waorani warriors, as a demonstration of their strength and bravery, capture …and then release anacondas . The key is to first hold your snake just behind its head …and then never let go !

   The piranha is a ferocious flesh eating fish, attacking its prey in ‘schools’ .So don’t put your hand in the water ! It’s becoming an endangered species as the locals have followed the maxim ..its is better to eat rather than be eaten . 

The lodge was either on the water , or 30 minute walk depending on river levels. A quote from an intrepid explorer “ I’ve long given up trying to shield myself from the giant masses of water. I’m soaking wet right down to my underwear. It’s been raining for hours.“ 

We decided to head west instead ; into the cloud forest . 

The drive out of Quito started on a 6 lane motorway , which wound through tree less suburbs of grey concrete blocks houses , overlooked by vegetation less mountainside . Desolate.

 Ahead a flashing orange light warned of something ; and surprisingly  it was a speed bump …on a motorway! .These continued for some kilometres until the road abruptly finished in a roundabout and a minor road. This wasn’t so much “ the road to hell ‘ ( Chris Rea ), as the road to almost nowhere; with the speed bumps preventing it being turned into a race track .

We crested the hill and into vegetation , then cloud , then forest . These hill faced the warm Pacific moisture laden winds: thus tropical  cloud forest . The road snaked down the sides of almost vertical hill/mountain sides, fortunately the vegetation and mist concealing the precipitous drops . Those crash barriers don’t look anywhere near strong enough ! 

The last 2 km was forecast to take 20 minutes , as long as you had a robust 4x4. Toyota Fortuner will do nicely ! Our accommodation owner proceed to guide us , which was just as well, as a sharp left was followed by a home made suspension bridge some 50 metres long over a raging torrent  . “ Wait until he has crossed first “ came a chorus from  our passengers . Watching the wooden planks move , and the bridge sway , was unnerving ; but it must be alright as he had just crossed . 

The track ended along a narrow ridge to our rental , with spectacular views ; when of course that cloud dispersed, fortunately most mornings .The location was a bird watchers paradise , the house was surrounded with copious flowers to attract feathered visitors , from humming birds to the occasional vulture . In true “ Jungle Book” style , that settled in an adjacent dead tree , looking steadfastly at us ..hoping for its next meal?

Our destination dictated that all walks started with a 300 metre steep slippery decent, and then of course finished in the reverse. Our  local guide, who also doubled up as the cook, and elder grand children scampered up and down . Us more aged soles frequently paused to admire the view. 

These forests were a whole series of steep mountains sides separated by swirling rivers . Our next bridge , although only  for foot traffic , was its’ owners pride and joy . Substantial , with handrails and roof ; it was reminiscent of “ the bridges of Maddison County . To leave however , we had to face a return crossing on that suspension bridge . 

Substantial bridge 

Welcoming smile …if you don’t make it !

Yes that is a road bridge!

…over troubled waters

70%

 What!, really !” Yes , 70% of our PCR testing comes back positive”. No wonder the testers who turned up at our house were dressed as if it was a highly  contagious zone. The chances it was/is . Why us , haven’t we been careful ; we’ll sort of. This time the finger was pointing at our cook. She lives in a closely packed urban area, had just celebrated a family New Year . Then developed cold symptoms , with her doctor, without recommending testing, saying it was nothing important. It was , and she was with us for two days until we deduced something was wrong . 

Ah! and I have a sore throat that my standby medicine hasn’t completely cured . But the brandy does make me feel better! At least all the adults are triple vaccinated . The children ( all 10 and under ) not . Parents declined the use of Sinovac , ( that available and promoted in Ecuador) emanating  from such an untrustworthy source. EU has only recently approved a reliable ( to us ) vaccine for under 12’s; and that hasn’t yet crossed the bureaucracy to reach the few out-posted Europeans .

The other side of the world , in the Maldives, Omicron has been detected in half our son’s family and friends . Fortunately associated illnesses have been comparatively mild. Those negative visitors promptly fled the country, only to be tested positive at their home .PCR testing has to be also carried at the right time ( and place? ).

Now we wait the result of our own testing. The words of the Clash seem most apt :

“Should I stay or should I go now?

Should I stay or should I go now?

If I go there will be trouble

And if I stay it will be double

So come on and let me know”

A previous freedom

Postscript :  pcr tests all negative….except cook ….iron rations henceforth 

The town mouse and country mouse

Cumbaya is a green and affluent suburb of Quito , population 2 million . Fortunately most of this population is hidden from view behind a long tree covered ridge, leaving us in an oasis of modernity . There is nothing we can cannot procure , nothing we have to do without . Local delis and country clubs abound; but so does traffic and people . At 04.00 in the morning it is calm , but outside this brief period of quite , it is hustle and bustle. Economics in full swing , which is what draws people from the country side to urban wealth. 

The town mouse has all these creature comforts , excepting the calming effect of nature’s countryside. So we are off to search for a brief respite and that rural idyll. To join the simple life of a country mouse. 

Travelling in the Andes is a challenge .As continental drift have pushed some mountains to over 6000 meters, aided by a volcano or two, rivers have cut deep gorges as quickly as the mountains rose up. So journeying, particularly north south, involves a tortuous route . Fairly recently a ‘ fast road ‘ has eased the journey . Previously it would have taken two days on horse back , now it was two hours in a land cruiser. Even this is an achievement, since the road seemed a succession of horse shoe bends.

The road weaved through drab the city suburbs , which themselves clung to the sides of the repeated ravines. Leaving the urban areas, the principal feature seemed sprayed concrete on the hill sides , designed to prevent erosion on the road’s steep embankments. Vegetation was scarce . This was a waste land , due in part to deforestation and also a very poor soil . Cresting the next hill , the change was dramatic . As far as the eye could see were acres of plastic…greenhouses. A monument on the next roundabout gave a clue to the principal crop : roses . Apparently the climate is perfect , and the  volcanic soil fertile . Roses are a major export earner for Ecuador. 

We were now descending into a wide bowl shaped valley , with the country’s largest fresh water lake in the bottom; all this  overlooked by 4500 m peaks . A green Andean gem . Our destination was to a valley to the side . We were early however , so searched for a lunch stop . Conveniently, for us, a former convent had been transformed into an hotel “ of charm “ . Agrarian reform in the 1950”s had robbed the estate of it’s 500 hectare sheep farm ; the nuns departed leaving the building, constructed in 1602 , to be converted for less abstemious residents. It still housed numerous religious relics, including a life sized Madonna on the stair case . Even this religious order was hedging its’ bets ,as over a door were three heads from a previous deity.  Alongside a plethora of religious artefacts , a framed picture  detailed the menu , but only through the use of  a QR code . Judging by the ageing clientele, a useless adjunct; but nevertheless detailing that Ecuadorean delicacy: Guinea pig.

The valley narrowed, the sides rising up , ending in a 4000 metre peak, beckoning exploration. The valley floor was flat and fertile , the sides covered in native eucalyptus , and then green scrub and  grasses above the tree line. The farm , our destination , occupied the bottom . It hosted cows, horses , donkeys, and, this being the Andes , llamas. ; and now us. The farmer had built three stylish wood framed houses, catering for guests every needs . Cooks arrived with farm produce to  prepare our meals , while we basked in this rural heaven . To ensure that we weren’t totally cut off from urbanity , satellite TV and Wifi were provided.  We settled down to enjoy a modern country mouse’s home. 

A rooster’ call signalled a start to our day . It was off to collect eggs ,and milk the cow, for breakfast  ; then collect vegetables from a gigantic kitchen garden . It made my potage look puny indeed. Walking to the valley’s end we crossed a field of cows and horses, both with new offspring; an unfriendly looking bull making sure our dogs behaved themselves. Squelching across a boggy terrain we reached our destination, a hidden waterfall . Alone, surveying this very special valley , we truly felt the beauty and inner peace of  nature at its best.

Off into the wilderness

It’s the cows that clean the BBQ!

Blog reflections

 The  last hours of this year tick by, and the house is suddenly quiet  (dogs, children and adults have set off for an evening walk) ; church bells are pealing across the valley . It  is a time for reflection on the year passed , and thoughts for that soon to start. Blogging has proved a vehicle for description of current  events ; and now is a  useful reminder of the year’s highlights. Of projects completed , of life’s impacts , of travel , and of the magic of the world around. 

As a water engineer  , that medium , not surprisingly , has been dominant; especially as we found ourselves running out of the stuff. In the South of France with a pool , acres of land and as a holiday destination, it was nearly a catastrophe . Normality was restored with borehole , well and pool refurbishment ; then judicious use of the recycled water . Children could swim, adults bathe , and flowers and vegetables watered. Even the rain prompted a joyous response. 

Ah , thoughts of vegetables and the considerable effort unleashed by the project to establish a potage, and that in a space previously occupied by couch grass. I can now report that despite some disappointing failures , edible product is being produced ; in some cases in abundance . This autumn has unleashed copious sprouts , cauliflower , cabbage, potatoes ,and late raspberries  . Our timing has been terrible as we have left for extended travels. Still those remaining have feasted on the gardens largess…and the result of all that work !

We live in a never changing world and have had to adapt and plan accordingly . Nature can sometimes be harsh, and climate change is very real. Our response has been installation of lightening conductors , standby generator , alternative water sources, and fire prevention measures. It can also be magical , especially with the adjacent Les  Albere, and La Méditerranée . A sunrise or full moon brings  shadows and light, with colours and shapes into joyous relief. A still morning punctuated with bird song lifts the spirit.

This departing year cannot but be defined by Covid. It has ruled our lives throughout the last twelve months . From lockdowns to gradual normalisation made possible by vaccination . Though not without a terrible toll , at a personal and economic level . Then just as we thought the worst was over , along comes Omicron  ; we seem back to square one. 

For us ,before this latest chaos, we departed on a 30,000 km odyssey, taking in the Maldives, India, briefly Madrid, and now residents in Ecuador. From the tranquility of a desert  island ,to the vibrancy of a Bollywood wedding. A  whirlwind of experiences; and a lifetime of memories; and we have yet to savour South America’s offerings . 

 

So that brings us to the rapidly approaching year; and first thoughts of family and friends, and an earnest wish for health and happiness. Fireworks are bringing in a noise start, but we hope for a level of normality in an increasingly chaotic world. Covid, economic and political upheaval will surely ensue ; and we will have to increasingly adapt to climate change, whilst minimising its impact . 

 

As the local clocks strike twelve , all remains is to wish my blog readership a Happy and Healthy New Year

A year in a coffee cup

Christmas Presents

Santa’s sleigh ,with two large  cases of presents,  descended into Quito , not a sledge , but an A360. We had arrived after a trip half way round the world .It had taken 26000 km to deliver these gifts , and be in a position to see the happy faces . Covid hurdles had been avoided and overcome . A Toyota land cruiser completed the transportation,  the capacity essential for people and goods, and of a size to give an impression of safety with the other large cars hurtling along the highway.

Our  suburb exuded prosperity , in this gated community the houses competing on size and grandeur. A visit to the nearby shopping mall for some last minute Christmas shopping, confirmed that we were firmly in a ‘first world’ environment. The shops were of a quality that enticed expenditure , as long as the card had sufficient funds!  We were reminded of Christmas by ubiquitous discounts and life size reindeer and tree ;  these covered in  Coca Cola signs . This was truly a temple to conspicuous consumption . Santa would need a big sledge for these shoppers.

But South America has also extreme variations in wealth , exacerbated by political upheaval and drug wars . Ecuador has recently been on the receiving  end of the consequences ,with refugees especially from Venezuela walking in over the mountains . They have nothing left , and there is no social service to support them . They are out at road junctions seeking their next meal . For them Christmas will not feature excess of anything material ,but a deficit of life’s essentials. 

I looked down across our community’s manicured park with our grandchildren playing with abandoned reserve ; towards Quito 500 meters higher , 5C colder and  shrouded in mist . The church bells echoed across the valley reinforcing my mood of contemplation. We were indeed remarkably fortunate to be in this country , in this environment , surrounded by family ; and all in good health . What better Christmas present was this .

Jail Break

 We have had a fantastic  time in the east ( India and Maldives ) , and  we were now heading west  ( Madrid and Quito ).  We had avoided eastern Covid, arriving and leaving all destinations with negative PCRs, our vaccine certificates and multiple forms . You never know whether the  upcoming journey is possible until the day before, and that PCR result arrives  . Have I unknowingly caught the latest variant ?and with it a 10 day confinement, in some cases in a government establishment ; an Indian nightmare !

The trip out of Dubai was on our favourite plane , the A380 : passengers get more room and a smoother ride. Room was plentiful with our adjacent seat free and in an exit row , so acres of space in front . The first 15 minutes were smooth , then suddenly the whole plane stated to shudder , to us violently . Seat belt sign had been switched on , then the captain instructed the crew to strap in ; a heart beat raising phrase. What’s happening ? , it’s the not knowing that is truly scary . We survived back to smooth flying ; and then the captain explained that we had been caught in the turbulence of the A380 in front , so he had moved off to the side. A380’s , being so big give it’s passengers a smooth ride ; but are not so good for the planes behind !

On the way into Madrid , in slow traffic , we passed a bright yellow Lamborghini SUV ! An absurd concept , but there is money here ! We were staying in the centre , surrounded by beautiful buildings,  but hoards of people . As the last shopping week-end before Christmas, it was as thought the city’s entire inhabitants had converged on the streets around us . No hope of social distancing ; but high degree of masks wearing. Reading the news , France was starting to close  its borders  , with Germany following suit. A concerned message from our daughter in Quito : “ you have avoided Covid so far , don’t fall at the last hurdle! “ We had arrived for three days of sightseeing , but now avoiding people was the message of the day . No Prado museum ; out door dining and drinking; shopping just for essentials . We didn’t want to spend Christmas locked down in Madrid , and maybe unable to leave `Spain !

A new PCR test would be our ‘get out of jail card ‘ . As a precaution the test was two days before departure , with results due mid night . The test centre was swamped , Spain had just mandated them for travel to their own  islands . Three hours late ( at 01.00 ) the centre messaged us  to say the results were inconclusive , they would repeat but couldn’t guarantee a result . Mild panic , we may be stuck ! After two hours of trying, a replacement centre was found which would guarantee a three hour service …at now 200 euro each . No choice we paid , and received a clear result on time…and a few minutes later , the same from the first laboratory. Doubly cleared …we are on our way . 

Perhaps I should mentioned here that , as our weight allowance had doubled , our destination had ordered loads of stuff in Madrid ; which necessitated the purchase of two more large suitcases. So we were off to the airport with 100kg of stuff. Travelling light? Still for the last three days we were able to consume alcohol , unlike the previous week in the dry Maldives . So no need for a repeat of gin and tonic with the flight breakfast!

Wedding Planners

It could be said that planning started some eight years ago with the hotel group Six Senses commencing the restoration of the 14th century fort Barwara in Rajasthan. Opened just 6 weeks before the ceremony it must have been an Herculean final effort , and that in the time of Covid . Whereas the overall concept of the hotel is impressive , it was the attention to detail that was outstanding. From blinds that opened automatically as guests entered into the room, revealing those spectacular views; to toilets that lit up at night and opened to order. Hotel group senior management were on hand ensuring perfection was maintained . A truly 7 star result !

With the hotel as the framework , the wedding planners, the Shaadi Squad,  wove a seamless spectacle . The wedding venues themselves were dressed to perfection ; theatrical scenery  miraculously arrived and departed on cue . They had previously smoothed our arrival ( and then departure) and then ensured we were all in the correct place ; but in a way we were almost unaware of their input. 

Twenty of the bride’s party were dressed for the five main events in coordinated matching costumes by top designers ( I suspect the same was true for the groom’s ) . Individually tailored , adjusted on our arrival in Mumbai , then with  tailors available throughout to ensure all were comfortably dressed. It was fun dressing up , and then blending in with all the other guests . Although in our finery , we relaxed into our parts in the pageant. Allowed to retain some of the costumes , we can look forward to a spectacular arrival at home country fancy dress events . 

Given the frenetic media coverage , maintaining security and privacy was going to be challenging . Selecting a fort , which itself was remote from  main population centres, as the venue was inspirational . We were hermetically sealed from the outside world , protected by enough bodies to ensure privacy throughout . Guests were asked to confine phones , and cameras to their rooms , and to avoid releasing any details until after the event . It is to the credit of all involved that media  speculated almost to the last minute whether  there was actually a marriage happening! Pictures are only now being released , and then only by the happy couple. An intensely personal experience was made possible despite energetic media attention .

The maestros for the event were undoubtably the bride and groom themselves  . Strategy ,effort and attention to detail has propelled them to superstar status . Their wedding was their crowning summit , achieved with the support of all , and the well wishes of friends and family .

“ I like it when a plan comes together “