Saturday, November 26, 2022

Changing Scenery



Serenity , nature at peace with itself  and little visible intrusion from  mankind . That may be illusory as from  our balcony at the foot of Les Alberes , there are only four houses to be seen . At night , the hills are in total darkness , and when wind free, noise has disappeared as well . The occasional owl is the only reminder that we are not alone. 

Air flights are not really travel. The only input from us has been to be walk down the gang plank ( air bridge ) , enter a tube , then eight hours later reverse to somewhere else. It’s the closest to teleportering . A blink, and we have arrived in a completely new environment ; that is once we have negotiated the final obstacles of border officials and taxi drivers ; our sole contribution to the change of scenery .


We had set off two days earlier , spent a night in the terminal ( airport hotel ) ; and now after another flight ,  when awakened in our new bed , the outlook couldn’t have been more different . On the 9th floor , surrounded by 20 storey tower blocks and the continuous noise of a major metropolis. KL ( Kuala Lumpur ) is a vibrant , bursting city . Certainly not at peace with anything , since with double digit growth it reinvents itself every ten years . 


When we were first here 25 years ago , the  tallest towers ( Petronas at 450m )  in the world were completed . Just to make sure they built two identical ones. Now , they are just finishing off another tower 50% taller ( Warisan Merdeka at 680 meters. ) . Surprising what you can do as a small country with lots of oil. But Dubai have more money  and  ambition ; so even this new tower is only two thirds the height of the Burj Dubai ( now renamed Burj Kalifa in deference to Abu Dhabi , who actually have most of the oil. ) . 


It’s a strange existence living vertically , surrounded by hundreds doing the same , most on show . It’s not nice living behind a curtain all day , so many remain on display . It’s not a matter of exhibitionism , but rather merging into the crowd . Why would anyone choose  to look at me , when there all those other windows. Certainly  not an instinct followed in suburbia . In our apartment  here in KL , I counted 100 others , all with a direct view of us ; and we are located in one of the least dense areas.


The view from the living room is in total contrast . There seems to be nothing but trees and jungle for a kilometre ; then with a view reminiscent of Central Park , the tower blocks seem to form a boundary wall to this greenness. The reason for this special view , is that this gap is inhabited by individual houses , with gardens and road sides full of tropical trees. Our vista is mainly tree tops ; but google earth shatters the illusion that the space is jungle. When google maps first arrived in KL , it was perceived a threat to security by seeing sensitive areas . The American Embassy was in a very built up area , but on google maps it was replaced by a square of jungle. It stood our even more from its neighbours on the map ; there must be a reason why buildings  rather jungle weren’t used to hide the reality !


From giant towers , to never ending shopping malls , KL advertises its wealth and the transformation over recent years . Forty some years ago a local Chinese business man, with incredible foresight and vision  bought a 350 acre redundant tin mine , lots below ground level .  The centre is now a series of theme parks , surrounded by a city of 200,00 people complete with universities and hospitals. We attended the Christmas lighting ceremony in the main hotel’s glitzy foyer . Drinks and canapés were followed by the finest sea food platter at Gordon Ramsay’s latest restaurant . KL is firmly “ First World “.



A changing skyline 

Dior’s glitzy Christmas ( that’s just their display !)


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