The volcano dominates all around , despite being surrounded by three others . The approach is a large flat plain covered with boulders , some car sized; remnants of a previous explosion . Clearly visible on the volcano's slopes were previous pyroclastic ( lava ) flows. One had terminated in a large mound which had blocked the valley , and resulted in the formation of a lake. A gentle evening stroll to view the water foul, with a majestic backdrop; and a contemplation of tomorrows adventure.
This is Cotopaxi, one of South America's most famous volcanoes and one of its most active ones. With its 5911 m it also ranks among the world's highest active volcanoes (26th highest). It has erupted more than 50 times since 1738. The most violent historical eruptions often produced destructive mud flows (lahars). Some have travelled, at speed, more than 100 km, and reached the Pacific to the west and the Amazon Basin to the east.
At the moment, it has been dormant for over 70 years, ( apparently “ minor ‘ ash discharges don’t count ). This is an unusual long interval in its recent history; ….and we are due to scale its slopes tomorrow, weather permitting.
The day started ominously , with zero visibility . The cloud lifted so we set off to the park entrance . Here we had to register , and read the large warning notices . The first started with “ in the case of eruption , don’t forget … Keep calm , and follow the instruction of park staff ;…always keep close to your emergency back pack …” Oh dear we don’t have one of those, the staff seem confined to the entrance . As for not panicking ?
Convinced that this was not the day for eruptions , we set off for the refuge 1000 m up the slope ; but with the promise of hot chocolate on tap. A rough , but wide road took us the first two thirds ; our Toyota in four wheel drive and first gear struggling with the ascent . So did three other vehicles , which failed the climb. As good Samaritans we had room for two stranded damsels.
Arriving at the parking space , the temperature had dropped to 3 C , the cloud swirled around , periodically obscuring our destination , and the featureless path. We were now above the snow line , so with whoops of joy the children revelled in snow ball fights and snow man construction . Ah we forgot the obligatory carrot . Thoughts of further ascent forgotten , breathlessly we took the short return to the car . Age, altitude , ‘long Covid ‘ ruled out any other option …and the tears of cold from our five year old.
“ What’s that on the road ahead ? “ To our amazement, it was a fox , with a magnificent brown livery. We stopped for pictures ; it stopped looking longingly, until rewarded with a resurrected biscuit. This was one intelligent animal that had learnt to adapt to its new environment . Why chase for food when a look will do.
Next morning dawned with not a cloud in the sky , and we were rewarded with a view of Cotopaxi , snow capped and magnificent . Although enticing a return , we decided that perhaps discretion is the better part of valour .
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